Spring is in the air. The evocative scent of green garlic wafted towards me as I approached the Taproot Farm stand Saturday morning. It’s an allium-y kind of time, and just standing around the stuff can make a person feel like they are visiting a friend who’s got something mouthwatering going on in the kitchen.
Last week Taproot had scallions; this week green garlic was added to the list. What’s the visible difference? For those who don’t already know, I learned this thanks to Georgia who works at the Taproot stand. (Not to be confused with George, co-owner of Taproot Farm)
On the left we have green garlic. On the right, scallions. The burgundy brushstrokes on the green garlic offer a readily identifiable distinction, but look closely at the leaves. The green garlic leaves are like a mini-version of leeks: flat and maybe a touch fibrous compared to the scallion leaves. The scallion leaves are tubular with an easier give, behaving in a way that, some say, make a good substitute for chives. In both cases (though you’d obviously want to cut off the straggly roots) leaves and all may be eaten.
What’s the difference between scallions, green onions, and spring onions? In my life, this question—as nothing more than a conversational or academic topic—comes up quite a bit. So I thought I could find a simple answer but, to be honest, I got very mixed up. Different sources said slightly different things; then “spring” and “green” sound similar and use enough of the same letters that I couldn’t keep the two straight in my head. So here’s what I think: Whichever name the bunch in front of you goes by, if it looks good and right to you, go ahead and purchase it. You can’t go wrong.
(These are two of the many sources that address the question: The Kitchn ; Healthline ).
And what about green garlic, garlic, and garlic scapes? According to the Taproot site: “Green garlic is the immature form of garlic before it makes a head of cloves.” And “Garlic scapes are the trimmed stalks that grow from hardneck garlic bulbs. If left unharvested, these stems will eventually flower. Garlic scapes are harvested from the hardneck garlic bulb to encourage larger bulb growth.” What amazes me about all this is that one plant provides so much variety: the long stalk of the green garlic, the squat bulb of the cloves, and the wiriness of the scapes. For baseball fans, it’s as if the same player can throw strikeouts, hit home runs, and make Gold Glove winning plays at shortstop. That garlic plant is an All(ium)-Star.
Green garlic and scallions are a wonderful addition, cooked or raw, to any dish where you might want the delicate presence of a garlicky or oniony flavor: omelettes, scrambled eggs, sandwiches, salads, pasta dishes. Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse Vegetables has recipes for Green Garlic Soup, along with Green Garlic and Potato Ravioli. David Tanis’ Market Cooking includes Scallion Schmear, Charred Scallions, Golden Scallion Crepes, and Japanese Scallion Custard.
When Lena lived here, I would chop up potatoes, roast them with butter then, towards the end of the roasting, scatter in a sprinkling of either green garlic or scallions. Finally (as we are inclined to do in this house) I’d melt a mild cheese on top. She said the result was a “mac and cheese” kind of experience.
Searching the internet on green garlic and scallions, I stumbled on Sautéed Cooking Greens with Green Garlic from none other than the Taproot Farm site. I like how they provide an Asian variation and an Italian variation. I made this Tuesday night using radish greens and, pleased, will be making it again. This site is a go-to treasure trove of recipes.
I spotted leeks at the Rineer Family Farm stand. Next week, I’m adding them to my basket.
Road Trip
A few years back, Chris, Anna, Lena and myself were driving from Berkeley, CA (where Chris currently lives) to Monterey, CA (where Lena attended graduate school.) At a certain point during the drive we all started to notice a preponderance of signs that included the word “garlic,” often in peculiar ways. Garlic wine? What we didn’t know at the time was that Gilroy, the name on the map, is the self-proclaimed “Garlic Capital of the World.” If you are a garlic lover, you may want to put this place on your bucket list. These folks proudly celebrate their status.
Though we failed to get a photo, we did see signs—serious, straight-faced signs—for garlic ice cream. (And I thought I made some strange foods.) If anyone has tasted garlic ice cream, or has decided to make it, please report back. I’m keeping an open mind.
After all, the joy of cooking is the joy of discovery. —Laurie Colwin
Gems From the Farms
Canter Hill Farm: (not pictured) Ground turkey, lamb cubes.
Taproot Farm: Radishes, Swiss chard, curly kale, flowering lacinato kale, dandelion greens, parsley, cilantro, potatoes (for Lena), scallions, green garlic, spicy radish microgreens, onions, tomato puree.
Primordia Mushroom Farm: (not pictured) Trumpets.
Randalia Bee Hives: Regular honey, buckwheat honey, creamed honey. (Next month, when Neil returns, I have to remember to get his bee pollen. I forgot this time, and I’ve just discovered what a wonderful element bee pollen adds to salads.)
I also took home quite a bit this week from the food artisans: Market Day Canele, Phyllodelphia, The Farmstead Table, The Pasta Lab.
Fact: The Moon is NOT Made of Cheese. However…
Here in Philadelphia, just beyond the path of totality, we had cloud cover at what would have been our peak eclipse moment. That’s okay, thanks to The Farmstead Table I got to, sort of, enjoy the event like only a cheese lover could.
Brief but Spectacular
His paintings are special. There is something I’ve always liked about fruit and vegetable boxes, and Narsiso Martinez makes beautiful, powerful, one-of-a-kind use of them.
I love the video about Narsiso Martinez! How inspiring!